Langkawi, an island off the northwest side of Malaysia was the perfect playground for the 5 nights Justin and I spent there. The island itself was small enough where we felt we could see the whole thing but big enough that we could experience a new beach, waterfall and several local food carts everyday.
We stayed at a hostel called Honey Badger Hut and while a bit out of the way, it had plenty of redeeming qualities:
1) The hostel had cows and foster puppies, who’s only worry was to avoid falling coconuts from the many trees on the property.
2) It was run by volunteers who did stuff like sing and play guitar while Justin and I played cards. They typically took song requests but didn’t know all the words to Journey’s Don’t Stop Believin’.
3. It had a very social atmosphere. Another volunteer at the hostel made a Snakes and Ladders game that everyone (or what felt like it) in the hostel played during our first night. For those of you who have never played Snakes and Ladders, it’s a very college-esque drinking game where you roll a dice to move from start to finish. Along the way, you may land on squares that require that all girls/guys drink, limit a person to only having “t-rex arms” for a round or requiring everyone to pretend that the floor is lava. If anyone touches the lava, they have to drink (plus they get burnt by hypothetical lava which is hypothetically painful).
Justin and I rented a scooter for our 4 day stay and on our first day of scooter-adventuring, we hiked Gunung Mat Cincang to the most scenic peak in Langkawi. The jungle trail to the peak was 1 hour and 45 minutes of climbing steep rock and roots with the assistance of a rope that ran from tree to tree.
From the top, we had a beautiful 360 degree view of dramatic forested mountains framing the ocean. In the coming days, Justin and I would be asked whether we were in Langkawi on holiday or for the Iron Man that was taking place and it was this hike that made me feel like I could answer, “Iron Man.”
The way back down the peak felt equally as treacherous – minus about thirty minutes, plus minefields of fire ants. At the bottom, Justin and I cooled off in Seven Wells, a series of seven natural water pools (connected by natural water slides!) overlooking the island.
The next day, I was sick with strep throat? I don’t know, I’m not a doctor. This is something that our gallon sized bag of Pepto-Bismol and oral rehydration salts didn’t prepare us for. So, Justin took care of me the best way he knew how, getting me medicine from the 7/11, force feeding me banana roti canai (and later chicken and beef satay), then eventually letting me sleep while he hiked Gunung Raya (a 4,271 step staircase) to the highest point in Langkawi. He described it as “something I would hate” and showed me the photos he took of motivational signs dotting the never ending stairway.
Still recovering from my sickness, Justin and I spent the next day at Langkawi’s tallest waterfall and then laying around Skull beach, where we had a few monkey standoffs and where I got numerous bites from water resistant ants? I don’t know, I’m not an insect scientist.
For dinner, Justin and I couldn’t resist this burger stand ran by a married couple. Although we’ve been avoiding burgers since we got to Malaysia, Justin is a sucker for chefs cooking things in other things’ grease. This guy did that and so much more- he sliced the burger patties in half as to not dry the outside, he put spices and sauces inside the halved burger, he layered the burger, cheese and freshly chopped lettuce with 3 different sauces and it was completely amazing.
On our last day, we fueled up for our adventures with our favorite nasi lemak and condensed milk roti from a little cart on the side of the road. Don’t you worry, Justin and I have already found a great roti recipe and you bet that’s all we’ll be cooking for breakfast once we have a kitchen.
Like clockwork, as soon as we got mid-way up a long, winding mountain, it started pouring rain. It was at the time that our clothes and packs were completely soaked that we’d realize that we were at the top of a different mountain than we had intended. This was also around the time that we began having the “are we going to have enough gas?” conversations. Truly believing that I would at one point have to wave down someone on the road, we made our way to the most northern, and most beautiful beach in Langkawi. Justin and I were part of the handful of people swimming in the crystal blue waters and gawking at the limestone karsts.
Still worried about the whole gas situation, we continued on to Durian Perangin Waterfall, a 14 tiered waterfall where you bet I’d forget my sunglasses at the very top (it was much less fun hiking up a second time).
LANGKAWI > KOH LANTA